This page contains answers to common questions
handled by our support staff, along with some tips and tricks that we have found
useful and presented here as questions.
Because each lawn is unique, the answer to this question can vary
greatly. The best watering times and length of watering depends on your
climate, the type of grass and soil conditions. It is generally preferable
to water infrequently for a longer period of time than frequently for
short periods. Watering infrequently provides deep water sources that
roots search for. Frequent watering promotes surface root growth. For
specific information, we suggest you contact your nearest nursery, garden
center, or the local horticultural extension office and consult with them
about a watering schedule best suited to your area.
We recommend watering early in the morning. Water in the middle of the day only if it is cool or if you have
a new lawn requiring constant moisture. You only should water more than
once per day if evaporation is extreme or if your soil won’t hold water
because of the clay content or the slope of a hill causes too much runoff.
Monthly you should:
-Adjust timer settings.
-Check and adjust
-Clean mainline filter (if installed).
Once Per Season you should
-Check wire and wirenuts for any damage.
needed you should: Unclog sprinkler heads.
-Adjust installation levels
of heads to ground level.
-Clean grass and debris from around sprinkler heads.
-Ensure all heads have popped up through grass.
Some parts of the United States have secondary water systems, pump
systems or backyard wells to supply water to sprinkler systems.
Invariably, these water sources have a lot of debris, sand, moss,
seashells and other contaminants in the water which are not trapped by the
inlet screen. These particles act as miniature drills and damage valves,
fittings and heads during sprinkler operation. To eliminate most of these
problems, We recommend installing a filter on the mainline. There
are a variety of types, but we recommend a "wye" or "tee" filter that can
be easily accessed and cleaned. Look for a stainless steel filter if your
water is particularly grimy. Be sure to search for a filter that will
handle enough water flow.
GPM stands for Gallons Per Minute. This refers to the amount of water
your irrigation system receives through the pipes. PSI stands for Pounds
per Square Inch and refers to the pressure of water being supplied to your
system. Both need to be figured out before you can design an effective
irrigation system or submit for our design service. Many home centers,
rental agencies or hardware and plumbing stores let you rent a pressure
gauge to test your system pressure (or PSI). Your water company can also
tell you the pressure of water being supplied to your residence. Of
course, it is always best to take the water and pressure reading yourself
in order to provide accurate design specifics. This is especially
important in many areas where the water pressure delivered to a residence
can be extreme and a pressure regulator must be installed to protect the
equipment and ensure good irrigation coverage. To calculate the GPM, you
simply need a bucket of any size (as long as you know exactly what size it
is), a watch with a second hand, and some simple math. Go to the hose bib
closest to the water feed coming into your home or building. Make sure
there is no water running anywhere inside or outside while you do this
test. Turn the hose bib on full blast and place the bucket under the bib.
Time exactly how long it takes to fill the bucket. Then, take the size of
the bucket and divide it by the time it took to fill it up. Multiply by 60
and round your answer to the nearest whole number. This is the GPM rate
coming into your system.
As a general rule, rotors and impact sprinklers require at least 30 psi,
while spray heads operate best at 30 psi or less. Check the performance
chart for the product you wish to use to determine the best operating
pressure for your specific application.